FUEL SYSTEM ASSEMBLY
photos were made on an engine build stand to improve clarity.
characteristics of this system are:
THE MANIFOLD ONTO THE ENGINE
Typical Stude V8 top of engine view. Note: PCV connection tube at rear of valley cover and the metal intake gaskets. I prefer the composite gaskets.
Set Manifold onto engine. Install the 3/8” X 2” stud in second hole left front as shown.
Install Carb studs 5/16” X 1 ˝”, 4 places. Install special stud and filter support bar at left front second stud back from front of engine.
INSTALLING THE CARBURETOR
Install a carb base gasket, followed by the insulator/spacer, followed by another carb base gasket. Then install the carb.
Install the vacuum tube from the
front of the carb to the distributor vacuum advance. A single bolt holds the tube and the front ear of the coil
INSTALLING THE CHECK VALVE
(A modified fuel pump)
Install the two 5/16 inch studs into the boltholes where the fuel pump used to mount. Install a gasket, followed by the blanking plate.
Install the check valve. This is an old fuel pump that is modified to serve as a check valve only.
Please return an old pump for me to use for modification.
PRE-ASSEMBLY OF THE ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP
Several different models of pump may be used. Just ensure their specs show they will deliver a minimum of 4 PSI and will flow a minimum of 30 gallons per hour. When being installed on an older car whose fuel tank condition is unknown, I strongly recommend installing an auxiliary strainer between the pump and the tank in addition to a filter before the carb to strain out any “big chunks” of particles. Continue to use the auxiliary strainer unto it no longer becomes contaminated. As long as there is rust and other debris coming out of the tank the strainer and the filter before the pump will prevent the debris from entering and damaging the pump.
INSTALLING THE PUMP
Pre-assembled pump, filter
and the pre-strainer.
Looking up under the car from the RH side
Just in front of the rear wheel.
Forward looking aft
Find a fairly straight segment of
the fuel tube from the tank to the front of the car. Cut out a XXX inch segment of the tube in a location where the fuel pump/filter/strainer combo is to be
mounted. If the tank is not empty the tube(s) must be plugged, as fuel will run
out when the cuts are made. I
recommend draining the tank before doing this operation.
Install the pump temporarily into the tube, locate, mark and drill a 5/16
hole for the mount bolt, connect the tubes, in and out, and connect the wires.
This completes mounting the pump.
Example of fuel pump mounted left rear frame rail on an Avanti.
This view does not include the “pre-strainer” because this was a known clean tank.
INSTALLING THE VAPOR/FUEL RETURN TUBING
Installing the tubing for the
vapor/fuel bypass line from the front to the rear of the car is probably the
most difficult and time-consuming part of the installation.
The pictures are from several different vehicles and reflect the
“general” concepts. Since
I’ve not specifically done a Hawk I cannot attest to the exact routing or
configuration of the tube as it passes from the front to the rear of the
Pictures are in order from rear to front of the vehicle, a ’63 Cruiser, the tube is placed along the outside of the left side frame rail.
Left and right views of
the modified filler tube inside the trunk.
Shows the hose coming up through the floor and connecting to the nipple
welded to the bottom of the filler tube. I
believe the Hawk has a left side behind the rear wheel door and filler tube so
these pictures are general info only.
INSTALLING THE NIPPLE ONTO THE
To connect the nipple to the filler tube the filler tube will need to be removed from the vehicle.
Before removing it from the car,
mark a location on the filler tube where the nipple will be best accessible to
route the tube/hose to it. Ensure
that the nipple can be welded on and will clear all surrounding objects.
After marking it, remove the
filler tube from the car and take it a safe distance away before welding.
Weld or braze the small section
of tubing (1/8 tube about 1 inch long) enclosed in the kit onto the filler tube.
Optional is a Heli-arc welder that will work best for this type of
precision welding. You’ll need to
find a local source for this. After
the nipple tube is welded into place then drill through the nipple tube into and
through the filler tube to create the passage for fuel.
Weld a threaded bung onto the
filler tube then fit a nipple into that bung that will allow the hose to be
connected. Drill the filler tube
after the nipple is welded on.
THE TUBE ALONG THE FRAME
Looking up under the frame from
behind the car. The hose from the
nipple comes down from inside the trunk, connects to the steel tube which is
firmly attached to the rear frame crossmember.
Use clamps/retainers about every 15 to 25 inches along the length of the
tube to attach it firmly to the frame.
Tube runs across the
rear crossmember to the left frame rail. Crosses overtop the frame rail at the
rear shackle then along the frame up and over the rear axle kick up.
Note retaining clamp at rear shackle and at top of kick up.
Aft looking forward as the tube
continues toward the front of the vehicle.
As it weaves through the left
front toward the fuel pump location ensure that it cannot be pinched or crushed
by the motion of the lower A-frame.
Terminate the tube anywhere near the original fuel pump location. Trim it to length and attach the vapor/fuel return hose from the front filter.
INSTALLING THE ELECTRIC WIRING
Remove the factory pipe plug from the front of the left cylinder head and install the pressure switch. Connect the wires as shown on the wiring diagram.
Route the wire over the
support to the rear of the engine compartment.(Shown coiled here)
Per the wiring diagram, route the
orange wire from the “P” terminal on the pressure switch all the way to the
pump at the rear of the vehicle. At
the pump trim to length and connect this orange wire to the white wire with the
female bullet connector supplied. The
white wire already has the male terminal installed.
Trim to a convenient length and
connect the fuse holder into the yellow wire coming from the “I” terminal on
the pressure switch. Connect the
other side of the fuse holder to the red wire from the choke heater. Then route
a wire from this connection to the “IGN” terminal of the ignition switch or
any other “IGN” source.
Connect the red wire from
the “S” terminal on the pressure switch to the solenoid at the small white
wire terminal that energizes the solenoid.
The black wire from the
choke heater is pre-connected to ground on one of the carburetor top screws.
Check to ensure a 10-amp fuse is installed in the fuse holder in the wire connected to the “I” terminal of the pressure switch.
Details of filter and wire harness support.